Duck and Cover

Juan takes off on an inside break while stalwart swimmers pass by in the frigid water. Fremont Peak cuts a horizon profile

A brisk 38-degree air temp this morning, a chilly offshore breeze and a bundle of clouds on the Eastern horizon all added up to a sweet morning session despite a fast rising tide of nearly 5-feet. Nice glow in the sky and shimmer on the water had the photogs out with their cell phones. Water temp in the mid-fifties. That will wake you up!

Waves Rise, Red Tide Fades

Mitchell's doin it's thing. Yes, there's a rider on the middle wave.                                                    Photo:KCS

The red tide that has been hanging around Santa Cruz waters for the past month seems to have dissipated, at least to a variable level, with the onslaught of a sizeable gulf swell that has really churned things up. At last peek this morning, one of three forecast swells from the north was peaking with set waves ranging from 5-9 feet at the major westside breaks.

Sabre Jets taking it.                   Photo:KCS

The red tide is the result of an algal bloom, according to Gary Griggs, director of the Institute of Marine Sciences and Long Marine Laboratory at UC Santa Cruz. Griggs talked about red tides in his Sunday column in the Santa Cruz Sentinel (www.santacruzsentinel.com Oct. 30).

Although it's not considered toxic, the dark, brownish-colored water and greenish foam looks weird and tastes bad when you lick your lips. "Just don't swallow," warned one local stalwart who was body whomping in it.

"A lot of guys are coming in talking about it," says Tim Pearson, manager of Arrow Surf Shop. It seems to cause respiratory issues for some. There are stories of allergic reactions to just being near the ocean spray.

The algal blooms "typically occur in California in the fall," writes Griggs, when environmental conditions are just right. This means when certain nutrients or fertilizer run-offs mix with warmer than normal water temperatures. The question he asks, are red tides becoming more common with the warming of the ocean. The jury is out since the studies are so new.

Some surfers stay out of the water, as much as they can help themselves, while others are not deterred in the least. When you think about it, there is a lot of crap floating around in that big ocean and close to shore. But when the water turns red and the foam green it can make you squirm. If you go out, remember to spit a lot and shower well soon after. And above all, "Don't swallow."