Breaking it Down

The subtitle of this blog is "search for stoke and the perfect wave." What this means to me is that stoke and the perfect wave are different for each surfer. Some are just stoked to be in the water, that includes me.

Floating on a surfboard in the ocean, and feeling as though you have some control over your board and your ability to be in a safe place on the continuously changing surface of the sea, is an empowering feeling, an initial sensation of basic survival.

This comes with familiarity and practice and I don't believe is natural. If you don't feel an innate fear and respect for the power of the ocean, you probably shouldn't be out there. As any child who grows up at the beach learns first off: Never turn your back on the ocean.

The adrenaline rush and survival instinct is strong when you're on the water and sometimes will lead to erratic and unsafe behavior. That is why practice and familiarity are so important. Those elements contribute to an understanding of wave judgment, which is a key to surfing.

Every surf break is different. Kelly Slater has explained how he studies every break where he competes, how the wind affects the waves, where the peaks are (which can change with the movement of a sandy bottom), what to expect from an approaching swell coming from various directions. Kelly does not paddle out without having calculated in his mind what he expects from the waves at that time. He is a consummate pro.

The perfect wave

The perfect wave for some is simply one that gives you a ride, and the longer the ride the better. For others it could be the shape of the wave, its hollowness, not necessarily its size but perhaps its speed and smoothness. Glassy conditions when there is no wind and the water is still and reflective can produce the best shaped waves, perfect for longboarding.

The perfect wave just seems to happen, as if by harmonic conversion of all the elements. Such waves are special and memorable, even for life. I remember a knee-high wave I caught at Rincon on Easter evening as the sun was setting and the wind stood still. The wave peeled quickly as I rushed across its face with a smooth, silent thrust. The picture of my board below me, seemingly perfectly still, nose above the reflective water, is etched somewhere in my mind's eye.

Believe me, I also remember crazy wipe outs and pearling head first off the face of close-out waves, an experience I hope to avoid during every session. This includes slamming my face into my fiberglass board. In such incidents, I have felt so fortunate that I was not knocked unconscious.

Most surfers, I believe, enjoy being in the water and riding just about any rideable wave that comes their way. The range of conditions only add to the thrill of it all. The perfect wave is serendipity.

Surf buddies and crowds

It's always more fun to surf with a buddy or a familiar lineup of fellow surfers. Local surfers will always watch and size up someone in the water whom they don't know. Can he or she surf? Does the newcomer understand etiquette? A savvy new surfer will carefully watch what's going on and wait to take his/her place in the lineup. Most locals who surf the same break feel some territoriality about their break. They are willing to share but don't appreciate someone who goes for every wave: a wave hog, even if he proves he can surf.

When the surf is up and waves are coming in powerful sets, everyone in the water is at greater risk as much from the waves as from the unpredictable antics of others, especially if they are not experienced. You see it all the time when there is a surf advisory -- dangerous conditions, rogue waves, rip currents, etc. -- lots of would-be surfers show up in the water and create a major hazzard.

I stay out of the water when I see all the in-coming wannabes entering the water. Better to catch a big swell early before the crowds show up, or at the tail end, when the final waves are still coming through and the carnage is over.

There are certain surf buddies with whom I enjoy riding waves together. There is a mutual understanding between us and we keep track of and watch out for each other. Although surfing is basically an individual sport, sharing a wave, or trading turns with a lineup of others, can be very satisfying and selfless, which is a good thing.