Morning Glass & The Duke

Beautiful sunrise this morning accented with a mild off-shore breeze and late remnants of a major northwest swell combined for a much-needed session after about two weeks out of the water. The red tide has mostly dissipated and the nasty run-off from more than two-inches of rain over the weekend has cleaned up.

Sets were fairly consistent wrapping around the point through the Lane and reforming on left-over sand from last winter. Yeah, that inside section is still working and wide on the sets. Duck and cover. Ride the nose. Cut back then turn fast. Whoosh!

Water temp is still warmish and has not dropped into the frigid zone that marks most winters. But winter is still a couple of months away. Although the past two seasons the ocean has remained fairly warm, especially two winters ago when 60-plus-degrees defied the natural drop to icy waters.

Hollywood Does Duke

If you haven't seen the latest Surfers Journal it's worth a read. Interesting piece on the legend and father of surfing, Duke Kahanamoku, talks about the racism that kept him in menial low-paid jobs, including f his film work where he was cast in funky bit parts like Indian chiefs that supported the Hollywood racial profile. Through it all, Duke kept his aloha and never let on. The man maintained his dignity inside, while the hucksters used his prowess for their profit. Best quote in the piece, from the Duke hisself: "Fucking haoles."

The piece seems a little edgy for SJ. Good for them for running it.We could all use a little more truth and a lot less fluff in the mags.

The Dance Floor Was Full

Bingo out in the water bringing in the bumper while Lucy, Frida, Oscar and Parker wait.

Back in the Cruz after nearly three weeks inland traveling through the beautiful Southwestern, US, it was nice to be in the water again, for me and for Frida.

At the cove the dog pack was back at it, running, wrestling and chasing the orange bumper into the water. We saw a pod of large, dark-colored dolphins swimming in the glassy ocean, always a treat.

Yesterday, out on the sandbar there were still signs of a south swell sending sets of waves all the way to shore. Long periods of waiting for waves, left everyone hungry and when the biggest, widest wave of the day suddenly showed up, everyone wanted to ride. There must have been 10 of us on that shoulder-high beauty, all smiles. It reminded me of old pictures I've seen of Waikiki with the Hawaiian kanes and wahines all riding their boards together, sharing the stoke.

"That was a party wave," someone stated the obvious. "The dance floor was full," said another.