Beautiful sunrise this morning accented with a mild off-shore breeze and late remnants of a major northwest swell combined for a much-needed session after about two weeks out of the water. The red tide has mostly dissipated and the nasty run-off from more than two-inches of rain over the weekend has cleaned up.
Sets were fairly consistent wrapping around the point through the Lane and reforming on left-over sand from last winter. Yeah, that inside section is still working and wide on the sets. Duck and cover. Ride the nose. Cut back then turn fast. Whoosh!
Water temp is still warmish and has not dropped into the frigid zone that marks most winters. But winter is still a couple of months away. Although the past two seasons the ocean has remained fairly warm, especially two winters ago when 60-plus-degrees defied the natural drop to icy waters.
Hollywood Does Duke
If you haven't seen the latest Surfers Journal it's worth a read. Interesting piece on the legend and father of surfing, Duke Kahanamoku, talks about the racism that kept him in menial low-paid jobs, including f his film work where he was cast in funky bit parts like Indian chiefs that supported the Hollywood racial profile. Through it all, Duke kept his aloha and never let on. The man maintained his dignity inside, while the hucksters used his prowess for their profit. Best quote in the piece, from the Duke hisself: "Fucking haoles."
The piece seems a little edgy for SJ. Good for them for running it.We could all use a little more truth and a lot less fluff in the mags.
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