Chilling on the Fun Side of The Wall

Sayulita is a charming, bustling little surf town on the west coast of Mexico about an hour's ride north of Puerto Vallarta. Our last visit was 18 years ago and we had heard how things had changed there with its growing popularity over the past two decades. Yet even with the influx of people and expanded development, Sayulita remains a beautiful locale with a laid-back vibe.

I expected the surf to be better but we were only there for seven days and you know how surf conditions change with seasonal storms and far-flung weather patterns. And surf isn't the only reason to go to Sayulita. We had six adults in our party. We found it a perfect place to get away from the tensions and political bickering back home and enjoy perfect day and night temperatures -- low-to-mid-seventies -- exquisite tropical scenery and colors, amid a friendly cultural atmosphere indigenous to our neighbors to the south.

A popular T-shirt in these parts reminded us that we were on the "fun side of The Wall".

There are many ex-pats living here, mostly gringos with a large number from Canada. The little town that we visited 18 years ago has expanded 10-fold. The place is buzzing with activity every day and night. The demographic is age one to ninety-one. The restaurants serve typical Mexican fare, nothing too exotic, at least that we found. This is not Oaxaca where the array of fresh vegetables and outstanding moles will defy expectations. Sayulita cuisine is more familiar to what we know back home: tacos, burritos, chili rellenos. And the peso goes a long way, meaning you will be satisfied for a few bucks.

There are little shops and restaurants on every block. And many outdoor cafe-bars right on the beach which is the main show in town and where the surf is found.  A small waterway, known as Hippy River, splits the town and empties into the ocean. Images of Bob Marley are ubiquitous. My favorite "shopping" experience was the outdoor farmers' market downtown on Friday, although I didn't purchase one thing. I am not a shopper yet the layout of interesting foodstuffs, crafts, art and more under the shade of large leafy trees presented a cool, convivial marketplace. This is obviously where neighbors meet, shop and hangout while listening to live outdoor music. It is not so much a Mexican experience as it is laid-back garden party. This is Sayulita.

We found a slightly different vibe during a day trip to San Pancho (San Francisco) about 15 minutes north on the coast. Much smaller and quieter than Sayulita, San Pancho consists of one main street of shops and restaurants, and a beach front, in addition to surrounding, more traditional neighborhoods. The main street is wide by village standards and paved. Health food and espresso bars give the town a hipster feel, as do the folks we saw there. Like Sayulita, there are no doubt many beautiful casas amidst the tropical landscape. You just don't see them from town, privacy being the catchword for these residents. The surf break here is more exposed than Sayulita, a beach break as opposed to a more protected cove, although you will find surf shops and equipment rentals.

Chill Factor

We had a great time just chilling. Six of us, three couples, rented a casa high on a hill on the northeastern end of town. In addition to the phenomenal view which gave us a look at the bay and even the surf break in town, we were located on the edge of jungle and treated to the sights and sounds of a variety of tropical birds, including flocks of parakeets that few from roofs to trees every morning in full song. The very steep little road up to our casa was named Chachalaca in honor of the bird found there. I believe the name comes from that bird's song, or cackle, which the name attempts to emulate. Although comical to us, the slightly plump feathered creature will ravage melon and tomato gardens. Many soaring frigates and vultures, as well was magpies, were also noted. An added feature that had everybody looking were the humpbacks that decided to entertain us close inside the bay one day with breaching and mondo splashes.

We had a spacious kitchen where we cooked each day, after bringing in food from the market. Our taxi driver stopped for us to buy groceries on our way in from the airport in Puerto Vallarta. Supplies included fresh hand-made tortillas and chorizo; an assortment of local fruits including papayas, avocados, tomatoes and pineapples; coffee, teas, milk and eggs; cheese, onions, carrots and peppers; beer, tequila, controy and limes. What we didn't have we would pick up at a local market the next day. Once in our hilltop casa, it was a balancing exercise to walk down to the beach or to town, which we did daily. The hike back up was an aerobic exercise that left us short of breath and ready for a dip in our small infinity pool that overlooked the bay. Many folks rent golf cart-like vehicles to get around in. The owner of the casa, Alejandro, had an ATV available to rent if we so desired. I, for one, considered my own two legs a better bet than climbing the hill in a four-passenger ATV that looked like it could kill me. We all agreed to walk. Not a bad daily ritual.

Alejandro, our host, is an architect from Mexico City. He designed the casa where we stayed and lives in a second casa on his property. The casa is a work of art taking full advantage of the views with large glass walls and outdoor decks for each of three bedrooms that feature stunning views. His gardens are beautiful with colorful flowers and greenery. Dark hard wood cabinets throughout give the casa an earthy feel. Tasteful artwork and arranged objets d'art on the walls captured our imaginations. We had everything we needed. There is something magical about the sound of a tropical rain shower, especially while you are lounging under a covered deck inside a floating hammock.