Surfing For His Life

 The best surfer out there is the one having the most fun.  -- Duke Kahanamoku

Bruce Mylrea "about to be swallowed by a gaping tube" at Bank Vaults in the Mentawais

You would be hard-pressed to find a surfer who is having more fun than Bruce Mylrea. One glance at Bruce, lean as a Greyhound, with shining saltwater blue eyes and a boyish grin, and you know you're in the presence of someone who is enjoying life.

Surfing happens to be his passion.

"The surf pumped relentlessly in Santa Cruz through December and January," he says, bouncing around like a 12-year-old. "Just getting back into the flow of surfing everyday made me feel great. I found myself performing pretty damn well for an old man of 62! We all surf better when we do it every single day in good waves.

"You can always surf bigger waves than you think."

Ten years ago Bruce was diagnosed with late stage prostate cancer. His prostate was removed but the cancer is still in his body. "It's been the biggest mental challenge of my life," he says. "When I found out I had cancer, surfing became my major therapy and outlet.

"It made me charge even harder."

The combination of his super positive attitude, vigorous exercise and a plant-based diet, he claims, has saved him, so far. No way is he going to give up this regimen, which includes 60 push-ups and 50 chin-ups everyday.

Bruce has surfed Santa Cruz breaks for 40 years and is one of a group of locals over 60-years of age who continue to surf "waves of consequence," as he defines the large, powerful waves that he craves. These are not gentle rollers.

His major limitation, he says, is the cold water in Santa Cruz, which dips into the low 50s (F) in winter. "I'm very lean [130 lbs soaking wet] and it's hard for me to stay warm even wearing a 5-mil wetsuit and 5-mil booties."

Mindy, Mylo and Bruce Mylrea on the road.

So he and his wife, Mindy, have sold all of their belongings, including their house in Santa Cruz. They're  heading to Florida with their 8-month-old Golden Doodle, Mylo, negotiating their "veggie wrapped" 32-foot Winnebago, The Wellness Wagon, their calling card for their educational non-profit www.OneDayToWellness.org., featuring programs for medical, health and fitness professionals. Bruce has a degree in Economics from University of Florida and a background in marketing in Silicon Valley. Mindy is his able and cherished partner in business and life.

"It feels good to be completely free!" he says.

He is no stranger to the Sunshine State, having grown up in Orlando near Lake Butler where he and a friend learned to surf riding ski-boat wakes on a Pure Joy swallow tail surfboard. "I'm pretty sure we were the first to surf behind a boat, but I have no proof." 

He still has family in Orlando.

He and Mindy have purchased a pad in St. Augustine for their rig and as a launching point for continued travels, including flights to places like Portugal where he'll find "epic surf. Heavy epic surf."

"We love the beach in St. Augustine but simply put, the surf sucks 90-percent of the time." 

As a lifelong wave rider, Bruce offers thoughts about surf culture and its current popularity.

"The sport has gone through so many superficial changes on the surface, but at its core it has always been the same for me. I never competed and I never got caught up in the hype. I have always simply loved the chase. I think surfing is one of the hardest sports to really get good at, period. And you never feel like you have it wired.

"Surf culture is fine... but pouring thousands of people into the lineup on Costco Wavestorms has not been beneficial. Having said that, everyone deserves to experience the sport. The problem is you can always build more tennis courts and football fields, not so with surf spots."

He's talking about naturally occurring surf breaks -- as opposed to wave machines -- each with its unique set of variables dished up by Mother Nature, with admission determined by factors other than dollars.

Bruce tells the story of a surf session 30-years ago at Kalihiwai, a local break on the north shore of Kauai: 

"I paddled out on a perfect 8-foot day. After catching a few waves on the inside, I paddled out to the main peak with a few locals, one a well-known Hawaiian. He went off on me for paddling into the main take-off zone, letting me know I had to prove respect and earn my way. I said, No problem! I didn't want to get smacked around by Hawaiian locals. I moved inside, caught a few more waves and went in.

"Walking up the beach, there was The Guy. I thought he was going to give me another verbal beat down. When I walked by, he smiled and handed me a joint of killer bud. I was not going to refuse it. I stood on the beach and smoked the joint and chatted with the guy like we were good friends. During the interlude the surf got bigger and better as I got stoned to the bone. Then he said, Let's go back out! I was high as a kite but was not going to say, no.

"We paddled out and shared some great barrels with no hassles. Respect is numero uno in Hawaiian surf culture. Period."

Bruce and Mindy have been married for 38 years and have three adult sons: Drew, 33 a film director; Chris, 32 a set and stage designer; and Casey, 28, a boat captain.

 "The crazy thing," he says, "is none of them surf! They hate the cold water. I was bummed at first, but they're all into their own things and very happy and that's all that really matters."

Regarding his future, he recites the mantra: "Florida. Work. Portugal. Morocco! I love Santa Cruz and will miss my friends, but we'll be back.

You can expect that to be next winter when the waves in Santa Cruz become of consequence.

Read more about Bruce's journey battling cancer in his book, A Plant Powered Approach to Prostate Cancer.

Read regular blog posts about surfing and other stories by Kevin Samson at www.kevinsamsonblogs.blogspot.com