Duck and Cover

Juan takes off on an inside break while stalwart swimmers pass by in the frigid water. Fremont Peak cuts a horizon profile

A brisk 38-degree air temp this morning, a chilly offshore breeze and a bundle of clouds on the Eastern horizon all added up to a sweet morning session despite a fast rising tide of nearly 5-feet. Nice glow in the sky and shimmer on the water had the photogs out with their cell phones. Water temp in the mid-fifties. That will wake you up!

Waves Rise, Red Tide Fades

Mitchell's doin it's thing. Yes, there's a rider on the middle wave.                                                    Photo:KCS

The red tide that has been hanging around Santa Cruz waters for the past month seems to have dissipated, at least to a variable level, with the onslaught of a sizeable gulf swell that has really churned things up. At last peek this morning, one of three forecast swells from the north was peaking with set waves ranging from 5-9 feet at the major westside breaks.

Sabre Jets taking it.                   Photo:KCS

The red tide is the result of an algal bloom, according to Gary Griggs, director of the Institute of Marine Sciences and Long Marine Laboratory at UC Santa Cruz. Griggs talked about red tides in his Sunday column in the Santa Cruz Sentinel (www.santacruzsentinel.com Oct. 30).

Although it's not considered toxic, the dark, brownish-colored water and greenish foam looks weird and tastes bad when you lick your lips. "Just don't swallow," warned one local stalwart who was body whomping in it.

"A lot of guys are coming in talking about it," says Tim Pearson, manager of Arrow Surf Shop. It seems to cause respiratory issues for some. There are stories of allergic reactions to just being near the ocean spray.

The algal blooms "typically occur in California in the fall," writes Griggs, when environmental conditions are just right. This means when certain nutrients or fertilizer run-offs mix with warmer than normal water temperatures. The question he asks, are red tides becoming more common with the warming of the ocean. The jury is out since the studies are so new.

Some surfers stay out of the water, as much as they can help themselves, while others are not deterred in the least. When you think about it, there is a lot of crap floating around in that big ocean and close to shore. But when the water turns red and the foam green it can make you squirm. If you go out, remember to spit a lot and shower well soon after. And above all, "Don't swallow."

Morning Glass & The Duke

Beautiful sunrise this morning accented with a mild off-shore breeze and late remnants of a major northwest swell combined for a much-needed session after about two weeks out of the water. The red tide has mostly dissipated and the nasty run-off from more than two-inches of rain over the weekend has cleaned up.

Sets were fairly consistent wrapping around the point through the Lane and reforming on left-over sand from last winter. Yeah, that inside section is still working and wide on the sets. Duck and cover. Ride the nose. Cut back then turn fast. Whoosh!

Water temp is still warmish and has not dropped into the frigid zone that marks most winters. But winter is still a couple of months away. Although the past two seasons the ocean has remained fairly warm, especially two winters ago when 60-plus-degrees defied the natural drop to icy waters.

Hollywood Does Duke

If you haven't seen the latest Surfers Journal it's worth a read. Interesting piece on the legend and father of surfing, Duke Kahanamoku, talks about the racism that kept him in menial low-paid jobs, including f his film work where he was cast in funky bit parts like Indian chiefs that supported the Hollywood racial profile. Through it all, Duke kept his aloha and never let on. The man maintained his dignity inside, while the hucksters used his prowess for their profit. Best quote in the piece, from the Duke hisself: "Fucking haoles."

The piece seems a little edgy for SJ. Good for them for running it.We could all use a little more truth and a lot less fluff in the mags.

The Dance Floor Was Full

Bingo out in the water bringing in the bumper while Lucy, Frida, Oscar and Parker wait.

Back in the Cruz after nearly three weeks inland traveling through the beautiful Southwestern, US, it was nice to be in the water again, for me and for Frida.

At the cove the dog pack was back at it, running, wrestling and chasing the orange bumper into the water. We saw a pod of large, dark-colored dolphins swimming in the glassy ocean, always a treat.

Yesterday, out on the sandbar there were still signs of a south swell sending sets of waves all the way to shore. Long periods of waiting for waves, left everyone hungry and when the biggest, widest wave of the day suddenly showed up, everyone wanted to ride. There must have been 10 of us on that shoulder-high beauty, all smiles. It reminded me of old pictures I've seen of Waikiki with the Hawaiian kanes and wahines all riding their boards together, sharing the stoke.

"That was a party wave," someone stated the obvious. "The dance floor was full," said another.

The Heart of Saturday Night

Always like having my ukulele nearby if only to entertain my dog, Frida. I've been showing up at the Capitola Esplanade on Sunday mornings for some cool kanakapila (beach jams) with a joyful group of ukers, singers and more. Check it out if you're in the neighborhood. Bring your instrument. Fun starts at 10.

There's a nice little break at the nearby jetty. Bring your board, too!

September Sunrise

62.5 degrees

Record high water temp, according to the brave swimmers who enter the ocean every morning at Cowells Beach for water recreation sans wetsuits.  I believe the record refers to water temperature in the morning this summer.

Couple of days with air temps near 80 degrees and the shallows warm up nicely. Definitely felt over-dressed in a 4.3mm suit.

Labor Day weekend coming up... likely to bring large numbers to the coast. Two hurricanes in the Pacific should bring some swell and liven the festivities.