Big Wednesday

PHOTO:KCS

For surf, this was the week that was. For three days this past week, waves appeared along our Central Coast the likes of which hadn't been seen in months, maybe years.

PHOTO:KCS

The lines were drawn from the north Pacific setting up a paradise of steeply faced waves that attracted surfers, gawkers, photographers and just about anyone who heard the thunderous noise of breakers near shore and had to have a look-see.

While Middle Peak at Steamer Lane drew the largest crowds in town with mountainous waves as far out as third reef, ripping sets of long peeling waves gave the Westside coastline between Sacramento and Swift streets the appearance of Hawaii, according to one happy surfer.

PHOTO:KCS

"It rarely breaks here, but when it does I need to re-shuffle my deck."

A couple of riders were towed out to avoid paddling through the strong current. 

Both surfing and golf have become more popular during COVID, since they're outdoor sports and allow for reasonable separation of participants. Local surf breaks, especially beginner spots like Cowells, have been inundated with COVID surfers. The parking lot at our public golf course, De Laveaga, has been full daily.

"It's a mad house out there," said Tony Loero, an experienced wave rider who grew up surfing and fishing in Santa Cruz.

Tony has spent his life in the water, including a stint in the Navy when he worked on nuclear submarines. That was enough to give him a few nightmares of how near to nuclear mishap we've been.

"Kevin, you don't even want to know."

Today he volunteers for Operation Surf, a group that provides disabled veterans an opportunity to enjoy the thrill of surfing. Tony is also a popular surf instructor, imparting his savvy understanding of the ocean to beginners of all ages.

"For most of them it's a one-time thing."

Surfing is a lifestyle for locals like Tony. It involves tracking the wind and tides, watching the currents, studying where the sandbars form and the direction of the swells and shape of the waves.

The recent big swell put our lifeguards and first-responders on alert. One rescue involved an experienced local who was knocked unconscious. He survived thanks to the aid of a buddy.

One young wannabe showed up on Thursday when the ocean had settled down. It changes minute by minute.

"It's as flat as a pancake out there," he said. "Yesterday there were huge waves?"

He must have been from Fresno, seeking COVID relief.