In old Hawaii there was a place where you could go if you broke the law and were able to elude your pursuers. It was a place of refuge called Pu’uhonua.
Right now our pu’uhonua is a place called Puamana, ten acres of tropical grounds dotted with low-slung condo units of funky post-modern architecture. They are dwarfed by giant trees and lush vegetation, including gardens of grapefruit, papaya and plumeria trees that provide fruit, beauty and fragrance to our landscape.
Nearly every person we meet on the north shore has taken refuge here at some point. It’s a stone’s-throw from Princeville Center. And one of the area's first condominium projects, located on the bluff above Anini Beach.
It has a reputation for safety and longevity, having survived the destructive Hurricane Iniki of 1992 that swept away old Kauai.
As the story goes, Iniki released the chickens you see everywhere on the island. Many of these birds seem to have found refuge at Puamana. There are more chickens than humans. It looks that way, because the humans are better at hiding out.
“They keep the centipedes away,” says one reclusive neighbor.
We call her the “Chicken Lady.” She feeds the birds, rescues them when they are injured and seems to always have a few under her covers. Don’t ask.
Our neighbors consist of musicians, writers, entrepreneurs, smugglers, surfers, young families and old retirees. The other half of the place is occupied by tourists who come and go, from all parts of the world.
These visitors are treated to a taste of real life on the island. They have a choice: come stay at a pricy, insulated resort and meet other tourists, or find a cozy home-away-from-home on the island , surrounded by a palette of greens and yellows, fragrant flowers and meet some of the most interesting people in the world who’ve found their refuge.
And be ready to be awakened just before dawn by a crowing rooster, or two.
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