Run, Viva, Run

Her hair flies like gossamer wings and her long limbs are in perpetual motion as she runs across the grass.

Watching her I sense pure, youthful joy. No thoughts other than propelling oneself over the carpeted earth.

She just keeps running, becoming smaller and smaller until she is nearly out of sight.

That's Viva, our 9-year-old granddaughter who lives on the island. She's an island girl in every way. Notices everything that moves or glitters. Catches the scent of every flower. Knows which spiders are poisonous, how to climb a tree and dive under a wave. She speaks fluent English and Spanish. She's a great big sister and a watchful daughter.

She's running. The simplest of exercises. With the wind. Through the misty rain. Into the sun. Over the spongy green grass.

Did she just run across the fairway of the nearby golf course? She did! Without a worry.

Her tutu (grandmother) and I are worried. There's a foursome waiting to hit their shots but have been halted by this strange sight of a barefoot girl on their fairway.

Luckily they wait while Viva returns, striding across their path like a frightened fawn.

She is not frightened, though. Her expression is joyful.

Lucky for us, the golf course and adjoining Japanese Gardens are arguably the most laidback location on the island. Kukuiolono, (Little Kuku to locals), is much more than a golf course with stunning views above the little town of Kalaheo. It's a popular site for weddings and dog walking.

The golfers wait patiently for Viva. They understand these grounds hold spirits of ancestors. When you pay $15 green fees, and there's wild chickens walking around, you realize that here golf is an after-thought. Even though the nine-hole course itself is credible. Locals love it.

We came with Viva for a picnic. She called us early that day to ask if she could spend the afternoon with us -- two seventy-somethings of another generation. We feel honored.

The clubhouse is at the top of the hill. The pro shop used to sell bags of chicken feed. Paco's Tacos restaurant and bar adjoins the clubhouse. I use the term "clubhouse" loosely.

We find Kuks Mini Golf on the premises where "fairways" and "greens" are natural grass. Viva gives it a try, her first experience with golf. I try to show her how to grip the club but she has her own style. However, she is surprised how much better she strikes the ball when using a conventional golfer's grip.

Before we leave to drive back across the small island, I look at the starter's sheet to see where the golfers are from:

About half are from Hawaii. Other places include Whitefish, Montana; Vancouver, BC; Toronto, Idaho, Oregon...

This place is on the map.

Enjoy the views of the south and west shores of the island. And watch out for a small girl running like a deer.