Wednesday, April 15, 2020

Surf's Up, Hula Down


Surfing is still allowed on Hawaiian islands.

"Giant surf is coming with life-threatening conditions," according to weather-guru-wave-shredder Guy Hagi.

"Don't go out if you're not an expert. There are not many lifeguards."

You can close the stores, shut down tourism, quarantine arrivals, cite those driving places on non-essential missions, but you don't mess with surfing.

It's like telling a Montanan he can't go trout fishing.

I paddled into Hanalei Bay yesterday under calm conditions. I heard it was fun earlier out at the Bowl, the main surf break in the bay. I stayed inside where waves were puny with no one else within 50 yards of me.

It felt good to be in the temperate water where it was clear enough to see the lines in the sand below me. Due to the crazy quarantine, I hadn't surfed in more than four weeks. Each week lost robs a bit more of your sense of feel.

The longer you don't surf the more likely you will not surf again. That is, if you're at the latter stage of the life curve.

Slow waves that turn to mushy white water are not thrilling and challenge your balance. Faster waves hold you steady.

I rode a few waves lying on my belly, not attempting to stand because I knew I would fall into the bumpy white water. The thrust of water with surrounding soupy foam was enough to achieve a child-like joy.

A longtime, accomplished surfer friend once told me that he plans to keep surfing as long as possible. "Even if I can only lie on a board and paddle." The smile on his face was infectious.



Scenes from the annual Merry Monarch Festival, canceled the week.

The annual Merry Monarch Festival in Hilo scheduled for this week is canceled. The festival is the major event of the year to celebrate Hawaiian culture including crafts and the all-important hula with its costumery, song and dance.
                                                                 
The mayor of Kauai has announced mandatory wearing of masks in public for everyone age five and over. He was the first to issue a night-time curfew. Kauai has become a leader in sheltering.

As of this morning, 517 cases of Covid have been reported throughout the islands, with nine deaths. There are signs that Hawaii's caseload has started to flatten.

The Governor asks people to remain vigilant.

Hawaii unemployment is skyrocketing.

The islands are a popular location for production of movies and television shows. These industries are on hiatus.

The trade winds return today to cool down the tropical heat and humidity.

When it's dark and still at night, the sweet scent of Puakenikeni flowers embraces the air.

Guy Hagi forecasts the weather to be "the best on the planet."

You are not required to wear a mask when you exercise. That includes surfing.















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