A Deeply Wonderful Thing

"Surfing is a deeply wonderful thing -- anytime, anywhere and any way."  -- Gerry Lopez, from his wonderful book, "Surf Is Where You Find It."

Mitchell's Cove, winter 2015-16

Riding a moving wave on a surfboard has got to be one of the greatest sensations there is. The rider essentially becomes one with the wave, and from the second of catching a wave he or she begins a dance of possibilities on water. There are also the probabilities of, say, wiping out. There are no guarantees and it's all very spontaneous, which may be the coolest thing of all, being in the moment, you and the wave, and everything else around you, from other surfers to the wind in your face and the sound that is often no more than a whoosh.

This blog is intended to document a surfing life, from the perspective of one who surfs and those he surfs with. I hesitate to call myself a surfer because I know people in the water who in my opinion are  true surfers. Surfing is their number one priority. They surf come rain, shine, storm, pain you name it. They rarely take days off if they can help it. Not all, but many of these folks have jobs. Some even have families and kids. It is a wonderful thing to witness their dedication and love for the sport. I am not worthy. I live near a surf break and watch it daily, often throughout the day, yet I am not as avid or as compelled as the true surfers. Although if I don't go into the water for more than five or six days I feel a great need to do so. Once I'm in the water paddling, ducking and riding waves I feel suddenly alive. It's called "stoked" and it can last for days. And it feeds from there.