Alignment of the Fittest

You could draw a straight line from this surfer's back foot through his neck.

Gerry Lopez (left), Dick Brewer and Reno Abellira in lotus position, 1969. Photo; David Darling

One thing you notice when you watch great athletes in motion is their body alignment. Skiers, jockeys. runners, dancers, surfers etc. all display amazing body control as the earth or water appears to rush below them. They remain straight and  balanced, almost as if they were standing on a street corner, although at times their bodies may be parallel to the ground or water. They're in alignment.

Gerry Lopez, one of the first surfers to master the Pipeline on the North Shore of Oahu, no doubt channeled his practice of yoga while riding waves. His style was (and still is I'm sure) so relaxed and nonchalant amid the power and looming chaos of roaring waves. He makes it look too easy.

I am a big advocate of yoga, which I practice daily. I believe if I would have started practicing regularly as a young man I would have avoided back problems later. I'll never know for sure, but I do know yoga enables me to continue to surf with modest flexibility. Yoga has taught me how to breath, both for relaxation, especially under stress, and during exercise. I have learned how to fill my lungs, hold my breath and relax my muscles while exhaling. Yoga is so much more than a stretching exercise. It is an ancient healing art that teaches you, through practice, how to maintain alignment.

A new south swell arrived today and some were fortunate enough to catch the first few sets under glassy conditions before the on-shore wind picked up. Sweet.