Wednesday, June 8, 2016

 "The best surfer out there is the one having the most fun." -- attributed to both Duke Kahanamoku and Phil Edwards

Everyone had fun this morning at daybreak. That is, once they were in the water: glassy, smooth-peeling knee-high waves. It was not fun, however, descending the stairs at Cowells where some Neanderthal had fouled the steps. Disgusting. Remarks were flying among those in the lineup, some classic but need not be repeated. The surf easily overcame any low-life offensiveness.

Among the more interesting sights: Ron saw a halibut wallowing in the shallows. I watched a spotted seal swim beneath a wave I was riding.

Stoked.

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