Dawn Patrol

Headin' out

Greg and Rosie

Dave got his beater bike back

Waves are scarce but if there's a ripple to ride, locals will jump on it just to be in the water. I caught DR jumping off his bike and heading down to the bar.

"My girlfriend's out there, so I'm going," he says as a way of explanation.

"She says she wants to get back into surfing. I told her, ' You've got a board. You've got a wetsuit. All you have to do is go." Basic surf wisdom.

Then he starts excitedly talking about the waves last week and how good they were. Expounding on an earlier session is a mainstay of many surfers. We like to tell our compadres what they missed yesterday, which was invariably better than today.

A young couple are checking the surf deciding whether to go out. I tell them to grab their boards and go.

"We are," says the guy. The gal smiles. A small set just came through. I'm confident that they know what they're doing. You can just tell. There are so many millenial-aged longboarders who surf gracefully in the traditional style.

"Just friends and neighbors out there," I say.

"It's a good day to make friends," he says.